Being a computer technician, I used all sorts of different software during my day. One day I might be removing viruses and malware, the next day, I might be replacing a failed hard drive. So the software I use is always changing, so here is another installment of my digital toolbox.

Windows 10 media (USB and DVD versions)

One of the best things Microsoft did when it comes to Windows 10 is to make the installation media readily available. With the installation media, you can do all sorts of repairs and maintenance to Windows 10.

You can, of course, install or reinstall Windows 10. You can also perform an in-place upgrade from Windows 7, Windows 8.1, or even Windows 10 itself. And since the drives are bootable, you can even use the Windows 10 installation media to repair Windows 10.

Now I have in my digital toolbox several USB and DVD versions of the Windows 10 media. The Windows 10 USB drives have both 32-bit and 64-bit versions on them. I have separate DVDs for 32-bit and 64-bit versions of Windows 10.

Believe it or not, but I have the ISO file of every version of Windows 10 that has been released (32-bit and 64-bit). You never know when they might come in handy.

Since the installation media is bootable, I mainly use it for repairing Windows 10. You can access the same recovery tools on the install media as you have when Windows 10 fails to boot correctly.

Here are a few links to articles that illustrate how you can use the Windows 10 media. I have included a link to the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool too.

How to repair Windows 10 by doing an in-place upgrade

How to get a free Windows 10 upgrade for Windows 7 and Windows 8.1

How to perform a clean Windows 10 installation

The Windows 10 feature you hope you never have to use

Windows 10 Media Creation Tool

Space Sniffer

There are times when I need to see how the space on a drive is allocated. It is one thing to know the size of a folder or file in numbers, but seeing them graphically represented as blocks is quite different. This is where Space Sniffer comes in handy.

Space Sniffer displays the contents of a drive as blocks in a treemap. The larger the block, the larger folder or file. You can quickly find data that is taking up large amounts of space on a drive.

Now the cool thing about Space Sniffer is that it requires no installation. You can run directly from a USB drive. Just insert the USB drive and start it up.

Case in point; I once had a business that all of the workstations were getting low disk space messages. I ran Space Sniffer from a USB drive on a couple of the workstations and quickly found the problem. It turned out that the network anti-virus client was not deleting previous versions of virus definitions as it was supposed to be doing.

I also like to use Space Sniffer to quickly find Outlook databases, as it has a couple of different locations it stores its files. Microsoft Outlook is notorious for creating large files.

See what your drive contains with Space Sniffer

Synchronized browser data

One of handy features of browsers nowadays is the ability to synchronize data (passwords, favorites, extensions, etc.). All of the major browsers have this feature, including Google Chrome, Mozilla Firefox, and Microsoft Edge.

Each browser has a different way of setting up synchronization; Chrome uses a Gmail account, Firefox uses a Firefox account, and Edge uses a Microsoft account.

But no matter what browser you use, you get the same content (passwords, favorites, options, etc.) across all platforms. Be it either Windows Mac, Linux, Android, or iOS. If it is on one device, it is on all devices.

Since I do a lot of research for service calls at my office, I like to save bookmarks in my desktop version of Firefox. Then when I get on-site, I can open those bookmarks in my smartphone version of Firefox.

One of my favorite things is opening a tab on my desktop Firefox from the Firefox in my workshop. That way, I can locate parts for customer's computers in the workshop and then order them in my office.

Any way you look at it, having browser data synchronized between devices is a real asset that should not be overlooked. If you are not syncing your browser data, I recommend you give it a try.

Are you getting lots of errors when you log into Windows 10? Are you not able to open the Start menu or File Explorer? If so, it may be time to repair Windows 10 with an in-place upgrade.

Sometimes repairing Windows 10 can be a challenging endeavor. I once had a Windows 10 system, and the right-click mouse function would only work in certain situations.

Another time, I had a Windows 10 system that File Explorer and the Start menu would not work. This was one of those times when you think that you are going to have to wipe the drive and do a clean installation of Windows 10.

However, in both cases, I was able to repair Windows 10 while keeping all of the user's documents, settings, and installed programs. I just performed an in-place upgrade of Windows 10.

Remember that if you start the in-place upgrade by booting your computer up on the Windows 10 installation media, you will only get the option of saving your documents. To preserve the installed programs, you need to start the in-place upgrade from inside Windows 10.

Now performing an in-place upgrade is not hard. There are two ways of performing the in-place upgrade: create the Windows 10 installation media using a USB drive or blank DVD disk or create a virtual DVD drive.

All you need to do is either download the Windows 10 installation media as an ISO file or create a USB or DVD with the Windows 10 installation. If you can access the Internet and download the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool, great. If not, you will need to use another computer with Internet access to download the Windows 10 ISO file or make an installation USB.

You do not have to be upgrading to a newer version of Windows 10 (22H2 to 23H2) for this to work. You can upgrade to the same version (23H2 to 23H2), which is more of a repair installation.

Now you never want to use an older version of the Windows 10 media, like the one you created a couple of years ago, to do an in-place upgrade. You will always want to download the latest version directly from Microsoft using the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool.

To make the media, you will need either a blank DVD or a USB flash drive that is at least 8GB in size. Remember that if you use a USB flash drive, it will be reformatted, and everything on it will be erased. If you have used the USB drive for anything else, you may want to copy the data off of it before using it for the Windows 10 installation media.

Once you get the Windows 10 Media Creation Tool downloaded, all you have to do is double-click the file to run it. It is a stand-alone program, and it does not require any installation.

The first screen that comes up is the legal stuff; just click on Accept. On the next screen, you will have to choose what you want to do.

Select Create installation media for another PC and click on Next.

On the next screen, you will select the language, architecture, and edition.

Since you are creating media that could be used for another computer, make sure the Use the recommended options for this PC checkbox is deselected. The majority of users in the US will select the following settings:

• Language: English (If you use a different language, select it from the pull-down menu)
• Edition: Windows 10
• Architecture: 64-bit (x64)

When you are finished selecting the language, architecture, and edition, click on Next. The next screen will ask you what media you want to use.

If you select the USB flash drive option, make sure you have the USB flash drive inserted into a USB port on the computer.

If you select the ISO file option, you will be prompted for the file name and location. If you want to make a DVD, you will need to choose the ISO file option and then burn it onto a blank DVD. Here is how to go about burning the ISO file to a DVD. If you want to mount the ISO file as a virtual DVD:

1. Open File Explorer by using one of the following:
   • Left-click on the Manila folder icon to the Taskbar.
   or
   • Press the Windows logo key + E at the same time.
   • Navigate to the ISO image you just downloaded..
   • Right-click on it and select Mount on the context menu that appears. Windows 10 will automatically assign the next available drive letter.

Once you have the Windows 10 installation media ready, either Virtual DVD, DVD, or USB drive, you will have to start the installation, if it didn't automatically start when you mounted/inserted the media.

Then, open File Explorer, navigate to the virtual DVD, DVD, or USB flash drive, right-click on the setup.exe program, and select Run as administrator.

The Windows 10 installer will then start.

You will be prompted to download Windows 10 updates, drivers, and optional features. Since you are doing an in-place upgrade, I recommend waiting until the installation is finished before doing any updates.

The next screen you will get is the license agreement. Just click Accept in the lower right-hand corner and continue with the in-place upgrade. Finally, you will get to the screen that asks what you want to keep. Make sure that Keep personal files and apps are selected, and then select Install in the lower right-hand corner.

The in-place upgrade will take some time, and your computer could restart a few times before it is complete. When it is done, your version of Windows 10 should be completely repaired and good as new.

In the examples I talked about earlier, I could not get the right-click function to work or could not get the Start menu or File Explorer to open at all. However, there is another way of starting the in-place upgrade, which is using Task Manager.

How to start the repair installation using Task Manager

Sometimes the only way to run a program is to use Task Manager. It is a simple, down, and dirty way of running a program with administrative privileges. And we want to use admin privileges to run the setup.exe program.

1. Press the Ctrl + Alt + Delete keys all at the same time (the 3-finger salute).
   
   You will get a screen that has several selections. Click on Task Manager.
2. The Task Manager program will appear next.
   
   If it says There are no running apps, click on the More details arrow in the bottom left-hand corner. This will bring up all of the running processes.
3. Click on the File drop-down menu in the upper left-hand corner of Task Manager
   
   and select Run new task.
4. The Create a new task dialog box will appear.
   
   Click on the Browse .. button in the lower right-hand corner.
5. Using the Browse dialog box, navigate to the drive with the Windows 10 installation files (either DVD or USB flash drive),
   
   select setup.exe and then click Open.
6. This will bring you back to the Create new task dialog box, and the path to the setup.exe program will be in the Open field.
   
   Make sure that the Create this task with administrative privileges checkbox is selected. Then click on OK.
7. The Windows 10 installer will now start. Just follow the steps outlined previously in this article for the rest of the in-place upgrade.

When doing computer repair for a living, there is one thing I do pretty often: replacing and upgrading computer components. Whether it be replacing a drive or installing a new graphics card, there is always something you need to consider. So here are a few things you should ask yourself when selecting computer components.

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your motherboard

Form factor

• What form factor size does your existing case support?
  If the motherboard you are looking at getting is ATX and your present case only has space and stand-offs for a mini-ATX motherboard, you will not be able to install the new motherboard.
• Do you have any of the extra parts that came with the case, including stand-offs for the motherboard?
  If you are replacing a mini-ATX motherboard with an ATX motherboard and your case is large enough for it, do you have the stand-offs and screws for the extra mounting points that the new ATX motherboard will require?
• Do you have the installation media for the operating system and all your programs?
  When you change out a motherboard, unless it is from the same manufacturer and same model line, odds are you will need to perform a clean installation of the operating system and your apps. If you try to use the existing operating system currently installed with a new motherboard, you are more than likely to get all sorts of errors. Be prepared to reinstall the OS and apps.

CPU socket

• What is the socket type of your existing CPU?
  You cannot use an LGA1150 processor in an LGA1151 socket.
• Will the new motherboard you're thinking about getting support your existing processor?
  You will need to do your research on the motherboard you are thinking about getting. If you cannot find the information online, give the manufacturer a call. There is nothing worse than getting a motherboard that you cannot use.

Memory slot(s)

• Does the motherboard you're considering getting support your existing memory modules?
  Again, do your research. You have to make sure that everything will go smoothly when you do the upgrade.
• Or are you going to need to get new memory modules?
  If you find out that you will need new memory modules, buy them in pairs (twin-pack, quad-pack). Try to avoid mixing different memory modules if you can. You will also find buying them in twin or quad-packs cheaper than single modules.

Expansion slots (PCI-e)

• What do you currently have for expansion cards?
  These include graphic card(s), RAID controller card(s), M.2 adapter card(s), Wi-Fi/ethernet card(s), etc..
• And what type of expansion slot(s) do they use (PCI-e x16, PCI-e x4, PCI-e x1)?
  Make a note about all of the different PCI-e slots that are used on your existing motherboard, and reference it when you are looking at a new motherboard.

M.2 Slot(s)

• If your existing mother has M.2 slot(s) and you use them, what form factor, key notches, and interface do they utilize?
  M.2 2242, M.2 2260, M.2 2280? B key, M key, or both? SATA 3, PCI-e 3, or NVMe?

Internal USB connections

• What type of USB headers does your current motherboard have?
  USB 2.0, USB 3.0, USB 3.1 Gen 1 or USB 3.1 Gen 2.

Internal drive connectors

• What type of internal drive connectors does your current motherboard have?
  SATA, SATA Express or U.2?

Power connector

• What type of power connector(s) and how many does the motherboard you are thinking about getting have (4-pin or 8-pin ATX 12V)?
  Does your existing power supply have the correct amount of connector(s)?

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right motherboard for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your processor / CPU

Socket type

• What socket type does your current motherboard have (LGA 1151, LGA 2011, AMD AM5, etc.)?
  Remember that you cannot use an LGA1150 processor in an LGA1151 socket.

Motherboard compatibility

• What processors does your current motherboard support?
  You will need to do your research on your existing motherboard. If you cannot find the information online, give the manufacturer a call. You may need to update the BIOS on your current motherboard to run the new processor you are considering getting.

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your CPU cooler

The space inside of case

• Does your present case have room for an upgraded CPU cooler?
  If you are thinking of air cooling, do you have enough space on top of the CPU for it? If you're thinking about liquid cooling, do you have the correct mounting holes for it? And will you need to replace any of the existing case fan(s) to accommodate a new CPU cooler?
• Does your motherboard have all the connectors for running a liquid CPU cooler?
  Some liquid coolers require an onboard USB header to function correctly. Also, does your motherboard have any special liquid cooler fan headers?

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right CPU cooler for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your graphics card / GPU

Slot version

• What version of PCI-e slot (3.0, 4.0, 5.0) does your current motherboard have?
  To answer this question, you will need to reference the motherboard manual or specifications online. If you have a problem finding this information, just contact the motherboard manufacturer.
• What PCI-e version is the graphics card you are looking at getting?
  Again, to answer this question, reference the graphic card manual or specifications online. If you have trouble finding this information, just contact the graphics card manufacturer. If the PCI-e slot on your motherboard is version 3 and the graphics card you are looking at getting is version 4, you will have a problem.

Power connection(s)

• Does the graphics card you are looking at getting require a separate PCI-e power connector(s)? If so, are they 6 or 8-pin PCI-e or 12+4 PCI-e 5.0 connector(s), and how many does it need?
  You should be able to find this information on the vendor or manufacturer's website. The information should also be on the outside of the box.
• Does your current power supply have all of the proper PCI-e connector(s) for it?
  Some lower-wattage power supplies have only 6-pin PCI-e connectors. Visually check your existing power supply for the type and quantity of PCI-e power connectors.

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right graphics card for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your memory

Slot type and speed

• What slot type and memory speed does your existing motherboard support (DDR3 2400, DDR4 4200, DDR5 6400, etc.)?
  To answer this question, you will need to reference the motherboard manual or specifications online. If you have a problem finding this information, just contact the motherboard manufacturer.

Existing memory compatibly

• Are you going to add more memory to your current memory?
  The one thing you want to try and avoid when adding memory is incompatibility with existing memory. If you plan on adding a couple more memory modules, try to use your current memory's exact make and model. Even though memory from different manufacturers may be the same slot and speed type, their clock timings can differ. So, using the same make and model of memory in all slots is always recommended. If you can't, make sure you match the memory timing of your existing memory.

Related articles
How to upgrade or add more memory to your computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your drive

Form factor and size

• What size and form factor drive(s) are you looking at getting?
  If you are replacing an existing drive, you should go with one that is the same form factor (3.5", 2.5", M.2, or U.2) and the same size (GB's, TB's) or larger than your existing drive. If you are upgrading your drive to a different form factor (SSD, HDD, or U.2), you need to make sure your current case has a place to mount the other kind of drive (3.5" or 2.5"). If you are upgrading your drive to a different form factor (M.2, mSATA), you need to make sure your existing motherboard has the correct form factor (M.2 2242, M.2 2260, M.2 2280), key notches (B key, M key or both) and interface (SATA 3, PCI-e 3 or NVMe) as the drive you are looking at getting. If you want an M.2 or mSATA and your motherboard does not have the appropriate slot, you will need to use an expansion card.

Related articles
How to upgrade the drive in your computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your case

Motherboard Form Factor (micro-ATX, ATX, ITX, etc.)

• What is the form factor of your existing case?
  If the case you are looking at getting is designed for a mini-ATX motherboard, you will not get a standard ATX motherboard to fit in it. Check the case manufacturer's website to verify the motherboard form factors that will fit in it.

CPU fan

• Does the case you are looking at getting have enough space for your existing CPU fan?
  There is nothing worse than getting the motherboard, CPU, and cooler installed in a new case only to find out that you cannot get the side of the case on. Double-check all dimensions.

Peripheral/expansion

• Does it have enough front panel connectors for the onboard headers of the motherboard?
  It sucks having USB 3.0 header(s) on the motherboard and not having any or enough connectors on the front of the case.
• If you have a DVD or BD drive, does it have a 5.25" drive bay in front for it?
  Many cases nowadays do not have 5.25" drive bays. If you have a 5.25" drive or drives (CD, DVD, BD), you will need to double-check the case you are looking at getting.

Related articles
Tips for choosing the perfect case for your computer

Did you turn off your laptop, and now it will not start up again? Maybe you closed the lid, and now it will not come out of sleep mode? If so, you may need to power reset your laptop computer.

This has to be one of the most frustrating problems with laptops, you press the start button, and nothing happens. No lights, no sounds, no display. It seems like it is entirely dead. And in a way, it is. If your laptop computer turned off while you were using it, a power reset would not help. That would be a completely different problem.

The problem is that the system has built up residual electrical charge in the capacitors. Discharging the electrical load is the only way to get it to run again. Most of the time, this is a quick fix. But there are times when it is not. Let me explain. This procedure requires completely disconnecting all power sources, the AC adapter, and the battery.

If you can remove the battery from the bottom of your laptop case, this will be pretty quick. If the battery is inside the laptop case, then it can be tricky. Some laptops have a pinhole battery reset button, which allows you to quickly reset the battery.

If your laptop does not have a pinhole battery reset button, you must disassemble it to access the internal battery. If you feel uncomfortable taking your computer apart, please contact a local computer repair specialist like Geeks in Phoenix.

1. Disconnect all devices from your laptop. This includes docking stations, USB devices, external displays, etc..
2. Disconnect the AC adapter.
3. Remove/disconnect/reset the battery. The following steps require access to the battery.
   
   If your laptop's battery is accessible from the bottom, remove it and proceed to the next step.
   
   If the battery is not accessible from the bottom, some laptops have a pinhole battery reset button located on the bottom of your laptop. Using the end of a paper clip, press and hold the battery reset button down for ten (10) seconds.
   
   If your laptop does not have a pinhole battery reset button, you would need to disassemble your laptop to gain access to it. Before you or a technician takes the computer apart, try step #4 first. If, after trying step #4, your laptop still does not start, then you may need to disassemble it to get to the battery.
   
   Some batteries connect directly to the motherboard, and some connect via a cable. Depending on the type of battery your laptop has, you may or may not have to remove it.
4. Hold down the Power button for 15 - 30 seconds. By holding down the Power button, you release all of the residual power left in the laptop. If you had to remove the base to get to the battery connection, place the bottom back on the computer and put it back in the standard operating position. Do not worry about screwing the base back on yet. Once you have discharged the laptop, you will reassemble it.
5. Connect the AC adapter and plug it into an AC jack. Most instructions for releasing the residual electrical charge will have you reinstall/reconnect the battery first, then connect the AC adapter. If you leave the battery removed/disconnected, you avoid any issues that the battery might have, like low output.
6. Press the power button. If the problem was a built-up residual electrical charge, your laptop should start up. The only error you might encounter is a warning about the battery missing.
7. Shut down the laptop. If all went well, your computer started and booted up the operating system. Just turn it off as you usually would.
8. Disconnect the AC adapter.
9. Reinstall/reconnect the battery. If you had to remove the base to get to the battery connection, you can reconnect it and attach the base back to the laptop.
10. Reconnect the AC adapter and start the laptop up again.

Are you considering building your own computer? Have you acquired the necessary components but need help with how to proceed? If so, you have come to the right place. In the following article, I'll walk you through the step-by-step process of building your computer. From unpacking the parts to connecting the wires and cables, I'll provide clear and concise instructions to ensure your computer is built safely, correctly, and easily. Let's get started!

I will assemble a computer from all the separate components in this article. If you don't have all the tools or are scared of making a mistake, feel free to contact a local computer shop and have them assemble it for you. If you live in the greater Phoenix, Arizona, area, feel free to call us.

Tools required to build a computer

• Wire ties
• Snipers (for trimming wire ties)
• 3/16" nut driver (for stand-offs)
• #1 Phillips screwdriver
• Thermal compound (may or may not be required)
• Anti-static wrist strap (optional)
• Needle nose pliers (optional)

Building a computer step-by-step

Cable management is one thing you will need to keep in mind as you build your computer. Take the time to secure all wires, even if it is temporary. It's okay if, during your assembly, you have to cut and replace some wire ties. When you perform cable management, this is normal. Just make sure you have plenty of extra wire ties handy.

Remember that if you are going to use an anti-static wrist strap, you need to attach the clip to a metal portion of the computer case before you start building your computer. I like to assemble as many components on the motherboard as possible before installing it in the case. Installing the CPU, M.2 drive(s), or memory modules can be a hassle when the motherboard is inside the case.

1. Install the CPU.
   
   Ensure the CPU's notches align correctly with the motherboard's socket. Refer to the motherboard manual for instructions on securing the CPU in the socket.
2. Install the memory modules.
   
   The modules will have a notch in them, so they will only go into the slot one way. Check the memory modules against the memory slots on the motherboard for the correct orientation. Also, refer to the motherboard manual for the proper installation order.
3. Instal the M.2 drive(s).
   
   Installing an M.2 drive with the motherboard outside the case is simple. Now is the time to do it.
4. Unpack the computer case.
   
   Make sure to do an inventory of all the parts (screws, drive caddies, etc.) that come with it. If the case did not come with a manual, download a copy online. You will be referencing it quite a bit during the assembly.
5. Install the I/O shield in the rear of the case.
   
   Some motherboards come with the I/O shield built into them, and some do not. If your motherboard has a separate I/O shield, be careful when installing it, as the metal edges of the case can easily cut your hand.
6. Install the stand-offs for the motherboard.
   
   Some cases have stand-offs built in, while others do not. If your case does not have them built in, check the hole pattern on the motherboard or the motherboard manual to ensure you have the stand-offs in the correct locations. Then, hand-tighten them using a 3/16" nut driver.
7. Install the motherboard.
   
   You may have to work it a bit to get the I/O ports under any tabs on the I/O panel. Tilting the motherboard at a 45-degree angle will allow you to get any I/O ports under the tabs on the I/O shield. Then attach it to the stand-offs using the supplied screws.
8. Install the power supply.
   
   Depending on the power supply, the power cables may or may not be already attached. Route the wires through the case, making sure not to cut them on any sharp metal edges. Make sure to connect the ATX12V 8-pin (4+4) and ATX 24-pin (20+4) power cables to the motherboard now, as you might not have access to the ATX12V power connector after installing the CPU cooler.
9. Install the CPU cooler.
   
   If you use a new cooler, thermal compound will already be applied. If you are rebuilding an existing computer, you will need to clean any current thermal compound from the CPU and cooler. Then, you will need to apply a new layer of thermal compound. Spread a thin coat of thermal compound across the entire CPU surface. A business card works great.
10. Install the case fan(s).
    
    Some cases come with fans already installed, and some don't. If you have to install the can fans, make sure you have the airflow correct. The airflow should go from the front of the case to the rear of the case. The fans have directional arrows printed on one side of them. Once installed, connect them to the appropriate fan and LED (optional) connector(s) on the motherboard. Refer to the motherboard manual for the locations.
11. Attach devices to the I/O connectors on the motherboard.
    
    The locations of all the pins (power button, power LED, hard drive LED, audio jacks, USB jacks, and case LEDs) for the connectors are in the motherboard manual.
12. Install the drive(s).
    
    Depending on your case, you may have separate or combination carriages for Solid-State Drives (SSD) and Hard Disk Drives (HDD). If you are also installing CD / DVD drive(s), you may have to remove knock-out metal panel(s) from a 5 1/2" bay in the front of the case. Be careful, twisting it back and forth to break it free, as the metal can be sharp and cut your hand.
13. Install the cables for the drive(s).
    
    Refer to the motherboard manual for the port location and numbering. If you have M.2 drive(s) installed, check the manual to determine if it shares resources with any SATA ports. You will want the primary (boot) drive to be in the M.2._1 slot or attached to the SATA 1 connector.
14. Install any PCI-e expansion cards (Graphics Card(s), Wi-Fi, etc.).
    
    Refer to your motherboard manual for the location and types of the PCI-e slots. If your GPU requires additional power, carefully route the required PCI-e power cable through the case to avoid cutting it with any sharp metal edge. Here is an article we wrote about installing expansion cards.

Trim all the wire ties and remove any protective film from the case and the components. Attach the keyboard, mouse, and monitor and go into the BIOS (Basic Input / Output System) to verify and change any settings. Refer to the motherboard manual for instructions on how to do this. After editing the BIOS settings, you will be ready to install the operating system.