When doing computer repair for a living, there is one thing I do pretty often: replacing and upgrading computer components. Whether it be replacing a drive or installing a new graphics card, there is always something you need to consider. So here are a few things you should ask yourself when selecting computer components.

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your motherboard

Form factor

• What form factor size does your existing case support?
  If the motherboard you are looking at getting is ATX and your present case only has space and stand-offs for a mini-ATX motherboard, you will not be able to install the new motherboard.
• Do you have any of the extra parts that came with the case, including stand-offs for the motherboard?
  If you are replacing a mini-ATX motherboard with an ATX motherboard and your case is large enough for it, do you have the stand-offs and screws for the extra mounting points that the new ATX motherboard will require?
• Do you have the installation media for the operating system and all your programs?
  When you change out a motherboard, unless it is from the same manufacturer and same model line, odds are you will need to perform a clean installation of the operating system and your apps. If you try to use the existing operating system currently installed with a new motherboard, you are more than likely to get all sorts of errors. Be prepared to reinstall the OS and apps.

CPU socket

• What is the socket type of your existing CPU?
  You cannot use an LGA1150 processor in an LGA1151 socket.
• Will the new motherboard you're thinking about getting support your existing processor?
  You will need to do your research on the motherboard you are thinking about getting. If you cannot find the information online, give the manufacturer a call. There is nothing worse than getting a motherboard that you cannot use.

Memory slot(s)

• Does the motherboard you're considering getting support your existing memory modules?
  Again, do your research. You have to make sure that everything will go smoothly when you do the upgrade.
• Or are you going to need to get new memory modules?
  If you find out that you will need new memory modules, buy them in pairs (twin-pack, quad-pack). Try to avoid mixing different memory modules if you can. You will also find buying them in twin or quad-packs cheaper than single modules.

Expansion slots (PCI-e)

• What do you currently have for expansion cards?
  These include graphic card(s), RAID controller card(s), M.2 adapter card(s), Wi-Fi/ethernet card(s), etc..
• And what type of expansion slot(s) do they use (PCI-e x16, PCI-e x4, PCI-e x1)?
  Make a note about all of the different PCI-e slots that are used on your existing motherboard, and reference it when you are looking at a new motherboard.

M.2 Slot(s)

• If your existing mother has M.2 slot(s) and you use them, what form factor, key notches, and interface do they utilize?
  M.2 2242, M.2 2260, M.2 2280? B key, M key, or both? SATA 3, PCI-e 3, or NVMe?

Internal USB connections

• What type of USB headers does your current motherboard have?
  USB 2.0, USB 3.0, USB 3.1 Gen 1 or USB 3.1 Gen 2.

Internal drive connectors

• What type of internal drive connectors does your current motherboard have?
  SATA, SATA Express or U.2?

Power connector

• What type of power connector(s) and how many does the motherboard you are thinking about getting have (4-pin or 8-pin ATX 12V)?
  Does your existing power supply have the correct amount of connector(s)?

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right motherboard for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your processor / CPU

Socket type

• What socket type does your current motherboard have (LGA 1151, LGA 2011, AMD AM5, etc.)?
  Remember that you cannot use an LGA1150 processor in an LGA1151 socket.

Motherboard compatibility

• What processors does your current motherboard support?
  You will need to do your research on your existing motherboard. If you cannot find the information online, give the manufacturer a call. You may need to update the BIOS on your current motherboard to run the new processor you are considering getting.

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your CPU cooler

The space inside of case

• Does your present case have room for an upgraded CPU cooler?
  If you are thinking of air cooling, do you have enough space on top of the CPU for it? If you're thinking about liquid cooling, do you have the correct mounting holes for it? And will you need to replace any of the existing case fan(s) to accommodate a new CPU cooler?
• Does your motherboard have all the connectors for running a liquid CPU cooler?
  Some liquid coolers require an onboard USB header to function correctly. Also, does your motherboard have any special liquid cooler fan headers?

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right CPU cooler for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your graphics card / GPU

Slot version

• What version of PCI-e slot (3.0, 4.0, 5.0) does your current motherboard have?
  To answer this question, you will need to reference the motherboard manual or specifications online. If you have a problem finding this information, just contact the motherboard manufacturer.
• What PCI-e version is the graphics card you are looking at getting?
  Again, to answer this question, reference the graphic card manual or specifications online. If you have trouble finding this information, just contact the graphics card manufacturer. If the PCI-e slot on your motherboard is version 3 and the graphics card you are looking at getting is version 4, you will have a problem.

Power connection(s)

• Does the graphics card you are looking at getting require a separate PCI-e power connector(s)? If so, are they 6 or 8-pin PCI-e or 12+4 PCI-e 5.0 connector(s), and how many does it need?
  You should be able to find this information on the vendor or manufacturer's website. The information should also be on the outside of the box.
• Does your current power supply have all of the proper PCI-e connector(s) for it?
  Some lower-wattage power supplies have only 6-pin PCI-e connectors. Visually check your existing power supply for the type and quantity of PCI-e power connectors.

Related articles
Tips for choosing the right graphics card for your custom-built computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your memory

Slot type and speed

• What slot type and memory speed does your existing motherboard support (DDR3 2400, DDR4 4200, DDR5 6400, etc.)?
  To answer this question, you will need to reference the motherboard manual or specifications online. If you have a problem finding this information, just contact the motherboard manufacturer.

Existing memory compatibly

• Are you going to add more memory to your current memory?
  The one thing you want to try and avoid when adding memory is incompatibility with existing memory. If you plan on adding a couple more memory modules, try to use your current memory's exact make and model. Even though memory from different manufacturers may be the same slot and speed type, their clock timings can differ. So, using the same make and model of memory in all slots is always recommended. If you can't, make sure you match the memory timing of your existing memory.

Related articles
How to upgrade or add more memory to your computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your drive

Form factor and size

• What size and form factor drive(s) are you looking at getting?
  If you are replacing an existing drive, you should go with one that is the same form factor (3.5", 2.5", M.2, or U.2) and the same size (GB's, TB's) or larger than your existing drive. If you are upgrading your drive to a different form factor (SSD, HDD, or U.2), you need to make sure your current case has a place to mount the other kind of drive (3.5" or 2.5"). If you are upgrading your drive to a different form factor (M.2, mSATA), you need to make sure your existing motherboard has the correct form factor (M.2 2242, M.2 2260, M.2 2280), key notches (B key, M key or both) and interface (SATA 3, PCI-e 3 or NVMe) as the drive you are looking at getting. If you want an M.2 or mSATA and your motherboard does not have the appropriate slot, you will need to use an expansion card.

Related articles
How to upgrade the drive in your computer

Things to consider when replacing or upgrading your case

Motherboard Form Factor (micro-ATX, ATX, ITX, etc.)

• What is the form factor of your existing case?
  If the case you are looking at getting is designed for a mini-ATX motherboard, you will not get a standard ATX motherboard to fit in it. Check the case manufacturer's website to verify the motherboard form factors that will fit in it.

CPU fan

• Does the case you are looking at getting have enough space for your existing CPU fan?
  There is nothing worse than getting the motherboard, CPU, and cooler installed in a new case only to find out that you cannot get the side of the case on. Double-check all dimensions.

Peripheral/expansion

• Does it have enough front panel connectors for the onboard headers of the motherboard?
  It sucks having USB 3.0 header(s) on the motherboard and not having any or enough connectors on the front of the case.
• If you have a DVD or BD drive, does it have a 5.25" drive bay in front for it?
  Many cases nowadays do not have 5.25" drive bays. If you have a 5.25" drive or drives (CD, DVD, BD), you will need to double-check the case you are looking at getting.

Related articles
Tips for choosing the perfect case for your computer

Did you turn off your laptop, and now it will not start up again? Maybe you closed the lid, and now it will not come out of sleep mode? If so, you may need to power reset your laptop computer.

This has to be one of the most frustrating problems with laptops, you press the start button, and nothing happens. No lights, no sounds, no display. It seems like it is entirely dead. And in a way, it is. If your laptop computer turned off while you were using it, a power reset would not help. That would be a completely different problem.

The problem is that the system has built up residual electrical charge in the capacitors. Discharging the electrical load is the only way to get it to run again. Most of the time, this is a quick fix. But there are times when it is not. Let me explain. This procedure requires completely disconnecting all power sources, the AC adapter, and the battery.

If you can remove the battery from the bottom of your laptop case, this will be pretty quick. If the battery is inside the laptop case, then it can be tricky. Some laptops have a pinhole battery reset button, which allows you to quickly reset the battery.

If your laptop does not have a pinhole battery reset button, you must disassemble it to access the internal battery. If you feel uncomfortable taking your computer apart, please contact a local computer repair specialist like Geeks in Phoenix.

1. Disconnect all devices from your laptop. This includes docking stations, USB devices, external displays, etc..
2. Disconnect the AC adapter.
3. Remove/disconnect/reset the battery. The following steps require access to the battery.
   
   If your laptop's battery is accessible from the bottom, remove it and proceed to the next step.
   
   If the battery is not accessible from the bottom, some laptops have a pinhole battery reset button located on the bottom of your laptop. Using the end of a paper clip, press and hold the battery reset button down for ten (10) seconds.
   
   If your laptop does not have a pinhole battery reset button, you would need to disassemble your laptop to gain access to it. Before you or a technician takes the computer apart, try step #4 first. If, after trying step #4, your laptop still does not start, then you may need to disassemble it to get to the battery.
   
   Some batteries connect directly to the motherboard, and some connect via a cable. Depending on the type of battery your laptop has, you may or may not have to remove it.
4. Hold down the Power button for 15 - 30 seconds. By holding down the Power button, you release all of the residual power left in the laptop. If you had to remove the base to get to the battery connection, place the bottom back on the computer and put it back in the standard operating position. Do not worry about screwing the base back on yet. Once you have discharged the laptop, you will reassemble it.
5. Connect the AC adapter and plug it into an AC jack. Most instructions for releasing the residual electrical charge will have you reinstall/reconnect the battery first, then connect the AC adapter. If you leave the battery removed/disconnected, you avoid any issues that the battery might have, like low output.
6. Press the power button. If the problem was a built-up residual electrical charge, your laptop should start up. The only error you might encounter is a warning about the battery missing.
7. Shut down the laptop. If all went well, your computer started and booted up the operating system. Just turn it off as you usually would.
8. Disconnect the AC adapter.
9. Reinstall/reconnect the battery. If you had to remove the base to get to the battery connection, you can reconnect it and attach the base back to the laptop.
10. Reconnect the AC adapter and start the laptop up again.

Are you considering building your own computer? Have you acquired the necessary components but need help with how to proceed? If so, you have come to the right place. In the following article, I'll walk you through the step-by-step process of building your computer. From unpacking the parts to connecting the wires and cables, I'll provide clear and concise instructions to ensure your computer is built safely, correctly, and easily. Let's get started!

I will assemble a computer from all the separate components in this article. If you don't have all the tools or are scared of making a mistake, feel free to contact a local computer shop and have them assemble it for you. If you live in the greater Phoenix, Arizona, area, feel free to call us.

Tools required to build a computer

• Wire ties
• Snipers (for trimming wire ties)
• 3/16" nut driver (for stand-offs)
• #1 Phillips screwdriver
• Thermal compound (may or may not be required)
• Anti-static wrist strap (optional)
• Needle nose pliers (optional)

Building a computer step-by-step

Cable management is one thing you will need to keep in mind as you build your computer. Take the time to secure all wires, even if it is temporary. It's okay if, during your assembly, you have to cut and replace some wire ties. When you perform cable management, this is normal. Just make sure you have plenty of extra wire ties handy.

Remember that if you are going to use an anti-static wrist strap, you need to attach the clip to a metal portion of the computer case before you start building your computer. I like to assemble as many components on the motherboard as possible before installing it in the case. Installing the CPU, M.2 drive(s), or memory modules can be a hassle when the motherboard is inside the case.

1. Install the CPU.
   
   Ensure the CPU's notches align correctly with the motherboard's socket. Refer to the motherboard manual for instructions on securing the CPU in the socket.
2. Install the memory modules.
   
   The modules will have a notch in them, so they will only go into the slot one way. Check the memory modules against the memory slots on the motherboard for the correct orientation. Also, refer to the motherboard manual for the proper installation order.
3. Instal the M.2 drive(s).
   
   Installing an M.2 drive with the motherboard outside the case is simple. Now is the time to do it.
4. Unpack the computer case.
   
   Make sure to do an inventory of all the parts (screws, drive caddies, etc.) that come with it. If the case did not come with a manual, download a copy online. You will be referencing it quite a bit during the assembly.
5. Install the I/O shield in the rear of the case.
   
   Some motherboards come with the I/O shield built into them, and some do not. If your motherboard has a separate I/O shield, be careful when installing it, as the metal edges of the case can easily cut your hand.
6. Install the stand-offs for the motherboard.
   
   Some cases have stand-offs built in, while others do not. If your case does not have them built in, check the hole pattern on the motherboard or the motherboard manual to ensure you have the stand-offs in the correct locations. Then, hand-tighten them using a 3/16" nut driver.
7. Install the motherboard.
   
   You may have to work it a bit to get the I/O ports under any tabs on the I/O panel. Tilting the motherboard at a 45-degree angle will allow you to get any I/O ports under the tabs on the I/O shield. Then attach it to the stand-offs using the supplied screws.
8. Install the power supply.
   
   Depending on the power supply, the power cables may or may not be already attached. Route the wires through the case, making sure not to cut them on any sharp metal edges. Make sure to connect the ATX12V 8-pin (4+4) and ATX 24-pin (20+4) power cables to the motherboard now, as you might not have access to the ATX12V power connector after installing the CPU cooler.
9. Install the CPU cooler.
   
   If you use a new cooler, thermal compound will already be applied. If you are rebuilding an existing computer, you will need to clean any current thermal compound from the CPU and cooler. Then, you will need to apply a new layer of thermal compound. Spread a thin coat of thermal compound across the entire CPU surface. A business card works great.
10. Install the case fan(s).
    
    Some cases come with fans already installed, and some don't. If you have to install the can fans, make sure you have the airflow correct. The airflow should go from the front of the case to the rear of the case. The fans have directional arrows printed on one side of them. Once installed, connect them to the appropriate fan and LED (optional) connector(s) on the motherboard. Refer to the motherboard manual for the locations.
11. Attach devices to the I/O connectors on the motherboard.
    
    The locations of all the pins (power button, power LED, hard drive LED, audio jacks, USB jacks, and case LEDs) for the connectors are in the motherboard manual.
12. Install the drive(s).
    
    Depending on your case, you may have separate or combination carriages for Solid-State Drives (SSD) and Hard Disk Drives (HDD). If you are also installing CD / DVD drive(s), you may have to remove knock-out metal panel(s) from a 5 1/2" bay in the front of the case. Be careful, twisting it back and forth to break it free, as the metal can be sharp and cut your hand.
13. Install the cables for the drive(s).
    
    Refer to the motherboard manual for the port location and numbering. If you have M.2 drive(s) installed, check the manual to determine if it shares resources with any SATA ports. You will want the primary (boot) drive to be in the M.2._1 slot or attached to the SATA 1 connector.
14. Install any PCI-e expansion cards (Graphics Card(s), Wi-Fi, etc.).
    
    Refer to your motherboard manual for the location and types of the PCI-e slots. If your GPU requires additional power, carefully route the required PCI-e power cable through the case to avoid cutting it with any sharp metal edge. Here is an article we wrote about installing expansion cards.

Trim all the wire ties and remove any protective film from the case and the components. Attach the keyboard, mouse, and monitor and go into the BIOS (Basic Input / Output System) to verify and change any settings. Refer to the motherboard manual for instructions on how to do this. After editing the BIOS settings, you will be ready to install the operating system.

Are you looking for an inexpensive way to boost the performance of your Windows 10 computer? If you have a USB flash drive and a spare USB port on your computer, ReadyBoost in Windows 10 might be the perfect solution.

If you have never heard of ReadyBoost, it is a program that caches files frequently used by Windows 10 and stores the cached data on a USB flash drive(s) or SD memory card.

ReadyBoost utilizes a service called SuperFetch. SuperFetch uses an algorithm to determine which files should be stored in the cache, which can include system files, application files, and user documents.

When Windows 10 needs to access these frequently used files, it goes to the ReadyBoost cache instead of the disk drive. If a file changes on the disk drive, it also changes in the cache, and vice versa.

Now, it is recommended that you use only USB flash drives for ReadyBoost on desktop computers. You can use a USB 2 or USB 3 port, but since a USB 3 port has a faster transfer rate, I recommend using one if you have one. However, you can use an SD memory card for a laptop computer if it has a fast enough transfer rate.

You can use more than one (1) USB flash drive for ReadyBoost. The recommended ratio between the ReadyBoost cache and system memory is 1:1 to 2.5:1.

So, if your computer has 8GB of memory, you could create a ReadyBoost cache between 8GB and 20GB. Alternatively, you could use a 32GB flash drive and allocate all of it to ReadyBoost.

Keep in mind that ReadyBoost was developed for use with Hard Disk Drives (HDD) and not Solid-State Drives (SSD). HDDs are known to have slower read and write times than SSDs.

ReadyBoost requirements for Windows 10

• Minimum free space per flash drive/memory card: 1 GB
• Maximum free spade per flash drive/memory card: 32 GB
• Minimum transfer rate: 3.5 Mbit/s.
• The flash drive/memory card format: NTFS

To make sure that your computer is ready to use ReadyBoost, you will need to make sure the SuperFetch (Windows 10 version 1803 or earlier) or SysMain (Windows 10 version 1809 or later) service is running. To check the status of the SuperFetch / SysMain service, follow these steps:

1. Open a Run dialog box by pressing the Windows logo key + R.
2. In the Open field type services.msc and then click OK.
3. Scroll down the list of services until you find either:
   • SuperFetch
     
   or
   • SysMain
     
4. Make sure it is running and set to start Automatically.

You are now ready to set up a USB flash drive or SD memory card with ReadyBoost. Just insert the drive into a spare USB port or SD card slot and follow the instructions below.

How to turn ReadyBoost on or off inside of Windows 10

1. Insert the USB flash drive or SD memory card you want to use with ReadyBoost.
2. Open File Explorer by using one of the following:
• Left-click on the manila folder icon to the Taskbar.
or
• Press the Windows logo key + E at the same time.
3. Navigate to the USB flash drive or SD memory card you want to use with ReadyBoost.
4. Right-click on the drive you want to use for ReadyBoost.
   
5. From the context menu that appears, left-click on Properties.
6. On the Properties dialog box, left-click on the ReadyBoost tab.
   
7. Once the system has analyzed the drive, select the options you want to use.

Are you looking for an e-mail program with a lot of features? One that has a calendar and task scheduler and can handle multiple e-mail addresses? Then look no further than Mozilla Thunderbird.

You have probably heard of Mozilla's popular web browser, Firefox, but did you know they also have a great e-mail program, Mozilla Thunderbird? It has some fantastic features, too.

Free e-mail programs usually lack the features of the corporate standard Microsoft Outlook. Even Outlook for Windows, the e-mail program that comes with Windows 11, has a limited feature set.

But Mozilla Thunderbird comes with all sorts of features right out of the box. It includes a calendar, an address book, and a task scheduler.

Account settings inside of Mozilla Thunderbird

When it comes to e-mail, Mozilla Thunderbird can handle multiple e-mail addresses (POP or IMAP) and can send mail in either plain text or HTML format. You can also add signatures (HTML or plain text) for each e-mail account.

Mozilla Thunderbird includes an adaptive junk mail filter for each account; you have to train it using the Junk toolbar. You can also request return receipts, just like in Outlook.

There are also message filters similar to rules in Outlook so that you can automatically process mail as it comes in. You can also create folders and sub-folders for local storage.

When I compared Mozilla Thunderbird to Microsoft Outlook, I found they had almost identicall features. One of those features, just like Mozilla Firefox, is the ability to add more functionally with Add-ons. With Add-ons, you can extend what you can do with Mozilla Thunderbird.

Some Add-ons allow you to connect to a Gmail calendar, sync the address book with Gmail contacts, and create custom menus. And if you want to change the way Thunderbird looks, there are numerous themes too.

Thunderbird can import data from Microsoft Outlook, but you must have Outlook installed on the same computer to do it. Several add-ons claim they can import data from an Outlook PST file; you would have to install the add-ons and try them to see if they work.

Now, Thunderbird does have the ability to import data from Microsoft Outlook, but you have to have Outlook installed on the same computer to do it. There serveral add-ons that claim they can import data from a Outlook PST database, you would just have to install the add-ons and give them a try to see if they work.

There are versions of Mozilla Thunderbird that run on Windows 7 through Windows 11, Mac OS X 10.12 or later, and GNU/Linux. For a complete list of system requirements, see the link below.

As with Mozilla Firefox, Thunderbird is also open source and free for personal/commercial use. Mozilla is a non-profit organization that relies on donations. So, if you find Mozilla Thunderbird useful, donate to help support its ongoing development. Click here to go to their donation page.

For more information on Mozilla Thunderbird, follow the link below.

Mozilla Thunderbird